Sorry, but I’m officially a failure at blogging! This has been a crazy busy second week, and I feel like I have tons to tell you! My friend Kendall puts up a post every night, but my internet hasn’t been that reliable, so instead, you get one long mega post that I’ve been adding to and saving in my word docs. Sorry for length!
It’s Sunday afternoon, but no nap for me. This has been our first real weekend in the city so FH set up several events to keep us busy and let us learn the lay of the land. Saturday morning, a group of students at Cornerstone University came, volunteering their time to show us around. I was set up with Rob and Emily from our group and our assistant/ new friend Fred. He is a first year computer programming student at CU. He’s really cool and does a great job with navigating us through crowds and telling us about local culture. It’s actually hilarious when he turns the table and asks us about the states! “What is the deal with the Super Bowl? Why are Americans so crazy about it?” “Why does it seem like Americans don’t care about their neighbors? Here, we know EVERYBODY within 5 kilometers.” We are actually doing rural visits in a couple of weekends so my group will be going home with Fred, and his mom is already excited about having us.
We left around 9:30 AM, hopped on a matatu, and got off near Owino Market. I was expecting craft/local exchange market, but that’s not what I got. Imagine what it would look like if Big D was set up to cater to a city of 1.5 million people. It was extremely crowded with people who kept trying to grab our wrists or shout “Mzungu!” at us. There’s still a thick layer of mud (we’re going to say it’s mud, because I don’t really want to think about what was actually on the ground) caked up on my shoes. First we walked through the food section. They had everything from fresh fruits to beans to the meat section. Speaking of meat: It was all VERY freshly butchered, and there weren’t any health/safety regulations. I gave my mom all of the gory details, but I’ll spare you. There was also a ton of cloths that get donated by western countries and sold there.
After we made it to the other side of the massive fire hazard that is Owino Market, Fred showed us the Old Taxi Park where the matatus go and wait for passengers to head back out to other parts of the city. They are packed into the lot like sardines, and we almost got sandwiched in between a few aggressive drivers, but we made it through to some hole-in-the-wall restaurant where Fred ordered us traditional Ugandan food. I ate all of the rice, some of the matooke, which is a thick, bland, chewy banana dish, and lost my appetite before I could finish the chunks of tough, unchewable beef served in a broth. It actually wasn’t bad until I made the mistake of asking Fred if they got the beef at the market that morning. Yep, it was “fresh” beef; just bought it that morning. Ew, I think I saw where those chunks of cow came from and that’s not appetizing. The happy side of this: It only cost 2,500 shillings or about $1.25.
Afterwards, Fred showed us more of “downtown,” including the parliament building, post office, back alleys, and National Theater, but by about 2, we were worn out from all the claustrophobia and walking so we asked to go home. But alas, one more stop, because we forgot to get our market challenge item. We were in a contest with the other groups to spend 1,000 shillings, $.50, on something, haggling if at all possible with free gelato on the line for the people who brought back the most bizarre item. Rob thought it would be cool to bring back a hen. Yes we got a hen. But we definitely cheated on the price. I think originally it was 16,000, but Fred got it down to 6,500. Walking back to the CCTaxi Park that gets us home, the locals were soooo friendly to us. Usually they just shout “Mzungu, give us money!” but mzungus with ncocos makes them very happy! Mzungu, why you have ncoco??? I kill chicken for you. Crazy mzungu! Apparently we were much more relatable with a chicken, and somehow it helped that Rob named it Janet after the First Lady of Uganda. We might be accused of un PC behavior if we named our livestock Michelle. Just saying. Despite that, we did not win free gelato because chickens aren’t bizarre in Kampala.
Saturday night, I got to Skype my ENTIRE family. Everyone was packed in front of the computer at home so I could wish my grandma a happy birthday. It was so great to see all of their faces! I realized that if I had wanted to study abroad 10 years ago before all this technology, I just wouldn’t have survived. It makes such a difference being able to see your family.
Sunday morning Fred picked me and Emily up for church at Watoto (translates as “children”) KPC, a HUGE Pentecostal church somewhere in the city. We made it to the Old Taxi Park and Fred navigated us another 20 minutes by foot so that by the time we got there, I was completely lost. The service wasn’t weird for me because we were in Africa, exactly, but I think it had more to do with the fact that I go to a really small, chill conservative church and my discomfort was just rooted in the fact that this wasn’t a small chill church. The Watoto congregation was very friendly, but whoa there were a lot of them, and they liked moving around a lot, and the preacher liked yelling. I’m honestly more excited about the church in Fred’s village. One group got to go to a small Lugandan service where they were completely oblivious, but they said it was still an awesome experience.
So after church Fred took us to get less traditional food! Fried chicken! Yay! Not so much. Ugandans don’t know how to fry chicken. Also, I got to thinking about how fresh the chicken was. Bet it came from the same market. Again, not appetizing. But he also showed us around some more. There are some gorgeous gardens in the middle of the city, and a few shops and movie theater that are Westerner-friendly in case we get homesick at all.
On the way back home, I got mzungued. So if I haven’t explained the matatus well enough yet, they are just the public transportation, but they’re really sketch, nasty vans. There is a driver and a conductor who opens the door and takes your shillings when it’s time to pay. The rule was, don’t pay more than 800 shillings for a ride. Well, I knew that, but I was trying to manage mine and Emily’s money so when Fred translates that I need to pay 2 thousand, I thought that’s what he meant. No, he meant 2 people so 2 x 500 equals 1000 total. I gave the driver 1,000 at first just in case, but he kept holding his hand out and looking at me like I was stupid. So I stupidly kept feeding him coins. Mistake! I realize it’s just a loss of a couple of quarters, but it’s still the principle.
After Fred dropped us off, the entire group got bused over to Ndere Troupes, a group that performs traditional Ugandan dances from all corners of the country. It was amazing how much those people could beat the drums, shake their hips, and keep going! It lasted about 3 hours so we definitely got our $5 worth! I don’t know how we could have packed anything else into the weekend, but I certainly enjoyed myself! Needless to say, I came home and crashed, but no class tomorrow morning so I’m about to catch up on my sleep.
I love ex-pats! Tuesday morning Dr. Stockley came to the house to give us our health and safety lecture. Everybody, including the people in Phoenix, has been telling us how crass and hilarious this man is. Also, he was actually in the film The Last King of Scotland, so there was definitely a lot of hype built up around this poor man… but he delivered. He’s a British physician who’s been living here for over 30 years and runs the Surgery. So along with telling us to avoid the water, he made several Stupid American jokes, discussed intestinal distress protocol in full detail, and explained the need to keep one’s knickers on. Apparently, everything gets misdiagnosed as malaria in Africa, but according to Dr. Stockley, it's usually a parasitic friend reeking havoc in the intestines. He can diagnose which parasite based on certain smells excreted from the body. Good to know. While on the malaria topic, he spent a lot of time talking about Doxy, which most everyone is taking, except for me. I’m on Larium, which will give me crazy insane nightmares, then a psychotic breakdown. Everyone just stared at me while he’s talking about this, so now they all expect me to lose it before May! Joy.
This afternoon on our way home from class, Linda and I turned around to see our adorable Post-Colonial Lit professor Dr. Kiguli trying to gracefully catch up with us without causing a scene. She was trying to return our markers, I think, but we had her walk the rest of the way down the hill and come have afternoon gelato with us. It was really great to get to have a more intimate discussion with her and a few of the other girls about her background. I already knew if she’s teaching at Makerere, she has to be pretty smart, but she’s also a really tough lady! We had been talking in class about a lady who ran for Parliament here several years ago, but she was called a “child” because she wasn’t married at the time. We asked Dr. K if she was married and she laughed it off saying, No, I’m just a child, but I can’t begin to imagine how much flack she must take for being a single woman in this culture. She’s a very successful woman, academically, but that’s just not how the majority of people here measure success. She also made me especially grateful for America’s political stability. Her father was murdered by the Idi Amin regime before she was old enough to remember him. For her entire adult life, last 24 years at least, she’s seen President Museveni overstay his welcome. It would be far too easy for her to just go back to Great Britain where she did graduate studies, but instead she stays in Kampala because she wants to help her people any way she can. We had an interesting discussion about the easiest way to affect positive change, internally by people who will benefit directly, or by outsiders like the UN or developed countries. Basically, I realize I go to a small university where we have discussions and close relationships with professors outside of class similar to this, but I feel really lucky to have had this same opportunity with someone so wise!
Thursday we went to the Shrines of the First Christian Martyrs of Uganda. The Catholics and Anglicans have shrines set up apart from each other, but both were persecuted together on the same day, June 3, 1885. When King Mutesa II found out that some of the young men who were supposed to be serving him would not work on their Sabbath, he ordered them to denounce the name of Christ. When they refused, they were made to gather firewood for a week and were burned alive. There was one boy who’s uncle, a man of high position under the King, offered to get him to safety, but the boy refused. It’s just crazy to think that the martyrdom was not that long ago, and now Christianity plays a very large role in the country. (Seriously, half of the store fronts or vans I see try to incorporate the Holy Trinity: Blessed Spirit in huge letters on matatus, “Jesus is da savior” on botas, and not kidding, God’s Restaurant. Wonder what they serve?)
I think yesterday was my favorite day in Kampala so far for so many reasons! Well, bad news first: Janet the chicken has passed away. That’s what you get for a 3 dollar chicken. Anyway, we just had afternoon class but we got out early and finally got to visit the famous Friday Market down on the railroad tracks. Okay, so I wasn’t thrilled about the 30 minute walk down Kabalagala Road to get there. Every Friday, the craft vendors set up tents and sell their goods. I found out a) that I’m awful at haggling b)that’s okay, because people really want to get rid of things in the afternoon so they don’t have to lug it back home, and c) the walk was so worth it and I must go back!!! I don’t wanna give away any of the souvenirs I got, but let’s just say I got my 70,000 UShs worth and better have some happy friends!
On the way back home, the joy of crossing a street in Kampala got me and Shelby separated from our other girls so we just had the best chilled out walk alone on our way back home. First, in desperate need of a cold drink, we found a Coke cooler and went searching for its owner to sell us a drink. We were pretty happy when they only charged us about 30 cents, but then a man comes out of nowhere with two chairs for us to sit in, then comes the table! Talk about a full-service Coke! I think it was maybe the best coke I’ve ever had! Haha! As we kept walking, me hauling an oversized drum, a group of 7 or 8 little kids ran up to us and started following us around. Shelby stopped at a movie store, so one of the kids decided to tap on the drum for a few beats, but that got them all pretty brave. So there I stood surrounded by these ridiculously happy Ugandan children beating on the drum in my arms! That has got to be pretty much the greatest, most surreal feeling, not sure how else to describe it! I think I might have to make sure I have a drum with me anytime I walk down back roads from now on just so that I can see those happy faces again. Shelby and I got back an hour later, missing dinner, but the 30 cent coke and impromptu drum concert was definitely worth it.
This morning was not quite as amazing as Kendall, Shelby and I tried to get to Garden City, mzungu hotspot. Linda, Janae, and Emily walked the whole way there, but the other three of us thought it would be faster and not so oppressively hot to take matatus. We got there an hour after them. And I totally slipped and scraped my leg/possibly procured nasty infection from streets of Kampala. I’m blaming a huge piece of litter for my nasty fall. Seriously, as fabulous as Kampala was yesterday, I’m really hating all their nasty garbage today. When our 3rd matatu finally got us to GC, we found our friends waiting at what they thought was Pizza Hut! Yum American food! Except it was really Pizza Hot, where they serve tuna or goat pizza. At the center next door, though, we found gourmet burgers and strawberry milkshakes and heard lots of American accents. But really, I would have gone there alone for the air conditioning. Score! But after some shopping, we were all ready to go home. We were feeling more confident in our matatu skills so we found one to city center that could get us home. Sadly, the first matatu dropped us off in the wrong spot, literally kicked us out, and it was a hassle to get back to the right taxi park so again, we got back a good hour after the girls who just walked. Will I ever learn my lesson??? Probably not! At least they got a good laugh at the lost white girls and we found out we have mad skills at getting un-lost.
I’m going to wash the dust off of my feet and get ready for some much-needed sleep, but I just wanted to let you all know I’m so appreciative of all of you who are keeping me in your prayers! All your support has been amazing and I definitely couldn’t be here making all of these amazing memories without you! Enjoy the nasty North Georgia ice storm!